Dahab - Day 2 

Dahab, Egypt

The Iberotel Hotel is located on Dahab bay, south of the city of Dahab. It's the last in a string of hotels on this stretch of beach, all of them offering some kind of windsurfing experience. And there are a lot of windsurfers here. As my windsurf instructor pointed out, all of the other windsurfing spots in Europe are closed for the season so the options are limited for Europeans wishing to winsurf at this time of year and they all come here.

Separating the bay from the Red Sea is a spit of sand that curls around it to form a lagoon. Across the bay from the Iberhotel is the sandy point of land and just beyond it is the dive spot which is called Babyfish. It is possible to walk there by following the beach in the direction of the lagoon and crossing the lagoon at its shallow entry point to the other side. The walk takes about 30 minutes.

I got up early today in order to have a look at the coral reef there called Babyfish before I had to be back at the hotel to check in for my windsurfing lesson. It took me about 30 minutes to reach it. I was able to swim around the reef in the early morning and was completely alone. Later in the day the windsurfers would round the point to take advantage of the increasing wind.

I was able to identify 28 difference species of animal life, so not bad for a start. Here's the list :

1) Anthias
2) A small peacock grouper (Cephalopholis argus)
3) Royal Angelfish (Pygoplites diacanthus)
4) Pennant\Banner fish (Heniochus sp.)
5) Crown Butterflyfish (Chaetodon paucifasciatus)
6) Half-and-half Chromis (Chromis dimidiata)
7) Banded Dascyllus (Dascyllus aruanus)
8) Sergeant Major (Abudefduf saxatilis)
9) Bluegreen Chromis (Chromis coerulea)
10) Twobar anemonefish (Amphiprion bicinctus)
11) Forsskol's Goatfish (Parupeneus forsskali)
12) Lionfish a.k.a. Turkeyfish (Pterois sp.)
13) Lizardfish (Synodus variegatus)
14) Pipefish (Corythoichthys sp.)
15) Hawkfish
16) Bluetail trunkfish (Ostracion cyanurus)
17) Masked Puffer (Arothron diadematus)
18) Siphon sponge (Siphonochalina siphonella)
19) Soft coral (Lithophyton arboreum)
20) Cornetfish (Fistularia commersonii)
21) Squirrelfish (Adioryx sp.) - red fish with horizontal white bands
22) Lunar Fusilier (Caesio lunaris)
23) Spotted sandperch (Parapercis hexophtalma)
24) Threadfin Butterflyfish (Chaetodon auriga)
25) Striped Butterflyfish a.k.a. Red Sea raccoon butterflyfish(Chaetodon fasciatus)
26) Exquisite Butterflyfish (Chaetodon austriacus)
27) Thornback Trunkfish (Tetrosomus gibbosus)
28) Goggle-Eye (Priacanthus hamrur)
29) Electric ray (Torpedo sinuspersici) - while beginning windsurfing I must have stepped on a small one and felt the shock of electrocution. I saw it swim away.

The last few times I have been at the Red Sea I have brought along a light wet suit. I did bring it along on this trip but left it in the hotel room today. Instead, I was wearing a Lycra full sleeve shirt made for the water. The water is warm enough so that it's not a shock when entering, but after an hour or so I started to feel chilly. I made a mental note to try using the wet suit next time.

I felt a bit uneasy as I started swimming around, even after remembering how to handle the mask and tube. The slight chill to water keeps you swimming to keep warm and the waves and current keep you moving or else you need to fight against them. Once in a while the tube dips below the surface and you get a mouthful of water. All of this disturbs your ability to observe the natural world below. On the other hand, the fact of being so close is much more engaging than looking at fish and coral in a glass tank. The constant movement means always being presented with something new to see.

My second day of windsurfing was a test of limits. There was a good breeze blowing. I had decided to increase the size of my sail from 5.0 to 5.5 and reduce the size of the board from 180 to 160. Yesterday, I had difficulties using the harness lines so I was sure to request 30 inch harness lines this time. But I struggled with the board and sail combination when tacking. The reduced stability of the board and the increased weight of the sail meant I was frequently falling into the water when turning.

I started wondering how much body weight plays a role in windsurfing. Light boards are highly prized in windsurfing because they can skim (plane) across the water and provide more thrills. But the lighter the board, the less stable it is in the water with more weight, it becomes even less stable. When I arrived in Dahab I must have been around 93 kilos. But in observing others, I did see some heavy people managing quite well so it can't be an insurmountable obstacle.
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Dahab - Day 1 

Dahab, Sinai, Egypt


(Dahab Bay)

The sun sets around 5:30 p.m. this time of year in Dahab. It's a pity really. The landscape is spectacular. Dahab lies on the eastern finger of the Northern Red Sea. It's also called the gulf of Aqaba. The gulf, indeed all of the Red Sea lies in a rift valley. Rugged mountains rise rapidly to the West of the town, hemming it in next to the sea. Here you can see across the sea to the equally dramatic mountains on the the other side in Saudia Arabia.

My trip from Paris yesterday happened uneventfully - always a blessing when travelling and especially when travelling on vacation. The Boeing 737 belonged to an Egyptian charter company called AMC, no frills, typical long, slow line to check in with infrequent flying holiday travellers with lots of luggage. 15 kilos was the luggage weight limit but they thankfully looked the other way when the scale displayed 23 kilos (I need to remember not to travel with hard covered luggage on these charter flights). I was pleasantly surprised to find out that they had assigned me an emergency exit seat on the aisle no less. I couldn't have asked for better than that. The meal which was served was nothing to speak of but the flight left on time.

All flights to the Sinai land at the airport at Sharm-El-Sheihk. I do believe they have built a new airport terminal there since I was last here. I don't remember the old terminal to be particularly outdated but the new one is much bigger. Dusk was already well advanced by the time the plan landed. No time to withdraw any local currency as the tour operator slapped the Egyptian visa sticker (also an innovation as the last time I was in Egypt they were stamps) into my passport and hurried me and the other two people signed up with the same company into a mini-bus for the final drive in the darkness up the coast to Dahab. Count on a full day of travel to Dahab when coming from Europe.

Driving at night here is a real experience and full of mystery. What messages to drivers send to each other by flicking their bright lights on and off? In France it's to warn others of police checkpoints, two or three rapid flicks is enought to get the message across. Sometimes they do it if they want to pass and of course to signal displeasure at oncoming traffic which may have forgot to dim their lights. But in Egypt, the flicking is frenetic and seems indiscriminate, at least to the uninitiated like me. Thankfully the drive ended mostly without incident. As we approached the destination, the driver appeared pleased by the successful journey and solicited comments about the drive. But when he dropped off the French couple at their hotel, he came back into the minivan and I heard him muttering. And soon, as he started to take me to my hotel, he dropped all subtlety, started jingling coins and mentioned the "B" word. "B" for Baksheesh. It's legendary in Egypt.

I realized that the French couple had probably stiffed him. When he dropped me off I finally fished out a 2 euro coin for him and he looked at it and me strangely. Hard to tell what he was thinking. I would have thought he would have been thankful but he left without saying anything.

I guess I'm satisified with the Hotel. I'm staying at the Iberhotel Dahabeya located on the beach. The buffet food I had last night after checking in was reasonably good, the room a bit spartan as they always are at these mass market tourist resort places. Even though it was dark out, I walked along the beach to do some reconaissance and got as far as I could before I ran into a fence which extended into the water and blocked my advance. I was trying to find out of I could walk to a dive/snorkel site that I had located on the internet. I was disappointed. The first day on any vacation is a process of orientation. And the information on Dahab is less then plentiful. It really is very much a process of discovery and trial and error especially if you are the pioneer within your circle of acquaintances.

This morning I investigated my wind surf connection, the Harry Nass winsurf club and enrolled in my lessons for later in the day. After encountering two malfunctioning money machines, I managed to exchange some euro notes for local currency at a bank branch at another hotel in the area. I was reminded that time is a relative concept in Egypt as the bank supposedly opened at 09:00 but I had to wait until 09:15 until someone showed up. (I guess it could have been worse). I was caught smuggling in bottled water into the hotel (a no no as they lose money from their captive audience this way) but was pardonned and succeeded anyway.

And I completed my first day of windsurfing. A great success if I do say so. I remembered much from seven years ago. I used a size 180 board (used for beginners) and I think a size 5.0 sail. I succeeding in pulling off a beach start, maintaining balance on the board and in tacking (very important because it allows you to turn and come back to where you started from).


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Warsaw 

Warsaw, Poland


(Reconstructed Presidential Palace)

So what do I know about Poland? Not much. It's a slavic country wedged between the Germans and the Tsars. And its history is intertwined with both of them.

After ten years living in Europe, it's only now that I've come to visit this country. Much of my travelling in Europe has been related to business, and until now, my business hasn't taken me here. But I have travelled in Eastern Europe. I've been to Hungary, the Czech Republic, Romania, but never to Poland. It's been on my list for a while.

So here I am, in Warsaw. I should have been here on business also. But business is bad, and my trip was cancelled. But it was cancelled after I had already paid for the two nights I'd planned to add to the end of my business trip. I looked for a way to save this trip without paying a lot of money and I found one, my frequent flyer miles. Not to say that I got my flight for free, mind you, as the days of free flighs are long over, but nevertheless far less than any other option.

I'm staying in the district in the center of the city near the central train station. There are many international hotels located here, around the huge, Stalinist, Palace of Science and Culture. Seeing this monstrosity is one of the reasons I've come to Warsaw.

The Polish language is much less influenced by Latin than French, German or English. But as a tourist, the unfamiliarity of the language is not much of a problem. Many Poles one runs into as a tourist speak enough English to make getting around easy enough. A little travelling savvy helps as well, of course.

So what is my impression of Warsaw? Well, my expectations had already been informed by a wealth of information on the internet. It was mostly detroyed in World War II and therefore, it's not that impressive in the aesthetic area. Lots of either very modern architecture or Stalinist era buildings, but with a UNESCO World Heritage site in the restored old city as an exception to prove the rule. I have to admit that on the internet, I wasn't that impressed by the photos I saw of the old city, but after seeing it, I would add this to the list of sites for which photos don't do justice. The weather has not helped to cheer up the city but what can one expect in November?

I was interested in the history of the city during World War II, which is why I made a point to visit the relatively new Warsaw Uprising Museum. In the waning months of the Third Reich, the Russian army was closing in on Warsaw. The Allies had invaded Western Europe and were advancing eastward. The people of Warsaw, seeing the endgame, decided this was the time to revolt against the Nazi occupation they had endured since 1939 in hopes of gaining some kind of independence. But I guess the die had already been cast for Poland at the Tehran conference in which Britain, the U.S. and the Soviet Union had agreed to various spheres of influence and none of them were too keen on the Poles having their own opinion about it. Support for the uprising from them was lukewarm at best and downright cynical on the part of the Russians if the Polish interpretation is to be believed. It is curious after all that the Russians didn't go allout to assist the Poles against the Nazis in Warsaw when their troops had advanced to within a stone's throw of the city. There is a wealth information and documentation here about this event including propaganda films and countless objects and interviews with the participants. If one is relatively new to the subject, it can be a little overwhelming.

The Uprising lasted a few months before being crushed by the Nazis. Having planned all along to reduce the stature of the city to a provincial outpost, they took the vengeful opportunity to level what parts of the city hadn't already been destroyed by the ravages of war and deport the remaining inhabitants. In the midst of taking in all of the information don't forget to feel the catharsis of the Nazi reprisal only months before the end of the Third Reich.

As information about the city's public transportation options on the net are a little sketchy, I opted to forgo all but the most necessary transport (airport to city center) and walk to the different sites. After making a loop from the center, to the Uprising Museum on the west side of town, and then on to the Jewish Uprising memorial and the Old Town and back, by evening, I was exhausted. But I was able to cover everything I had planned to see.

All in all, I guess a full day in Warsaw was about right. Tomorrow morning I'll finish up by exploring the Palace of Science and Culture before heading to the airport. By then I'll have added another chapter to my understanding of Europe, another culture, another history, another point of view. When I hear of Warsaw in the future, it will be more than just an abstract and unknown city. I'll have a frame of reference, a mental picture to refer to which can help, perhaps, to explain events which go on in this Union of 27 nations.
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Ten years in Europe, What's next? 

Chantilly, France

Sometime in the first half of 1998 I flew to Paris on assignment for Chrysler Corporation. Although I've returned to the U.S. many times over the years, it was never to reside there. Since 1998 I have been living in Europe, partly in France and partly in Germany.

Having long ago got over culture shock of living in Europe, I feel as comfortable living here, perhaps more so, than I did living in the U.S.

Although I enjoyed living in Germany, I feel most comfortable in France due to my longer experience here and the level of my French in comparison to my German. Although I feel very comfortable interacting with the French, and I'm sympathetic to their world view and share many of their values, I don't feel myself to be French. In fact, I rather enjoy my status as an outsider.

I might even call it a priviledge to be an outsider. I enjoy not having to measure myself against my peers in the society. I feel a real sense of liberty to be who I am.

And I feel a sense of accomplishment at having arrived where I am after having made a real effort.

Being somewhat detached from one's surroundings also allows one the freedom to be more philisophical about the events going around oneself, and to understand them within the context of a bigger picture. It's a picture that includes the consideration of history as an aid to understanding the present.

Having acheived a certain amount of success in my life, is it time to think about doing something different, of going after a new challenge?

My experience up until now has been mostly related to information systems in heavy industry, notably the automobile industry. During my years as an IT specialist I have acquired project management skills which have allowed me to approach problems in a certain way, by breaking them down into manageable parts and by identifying the dependencies between these parts. And from this analysis, putting together a plan with a defined objective and a defined time plan. I've come to believe that any problem can be solved this way, and that no problem, once analyzed in this way, is insurmountable. I have a bias towards simplicity and believe that all problems can be simplified and understood by those with little expertise. In my current job I'm applying these methods to the areas of IT infrastructure, product design/development, and manufacturing.

At the moment there are a number of notable events taking place which have received a lot of attention in the media.

1) The phenomena of Global Warming
2) The shortage of oil supplies
3) The banking and stock market crisis
4) The specter of global recession.
5) The U.S. presidential election

I guess the one reflection that these events inspire in me, is the fact that it has only been possible to support the present number of people on the planet through the industrialization and mass distribution of the food supply. And this industrialization has been possible due to the abundance of fossil fuel, which we all know is a limited resource which will run out at some point in time. If the planet were to somehow loose these industrial processes, there would be great suffering and catastrophe beyond the ability of the industrialized nations to manage it.

All of this on top of the fact that significant populations continue to be subjected to war and famine.

At one time in my life I thought I might like to make a career in some kind of humanitarian endeavor, perhaps conflict resolution. I guess I abandonned this along the way, perhaps due to a frustration with the (by definition) highly political nature of humanitarian endeavors. Politics has never been a strong point of mine, although I have learned with time some tricks of the trade. Obviously communication skills are key, one needs the ability to appeal to reason and to convince decision makers, sometimes to flatter and manipulate. Gestures and actions are, of course, important also, such as investments in time, attention and the giving of gifts.

Have I acquired the maturity to be able to think once again about involving myself in some kind of humanitarian endeavor? I guess that's the bottom line of this somewhat rambling entry. And if I have, what could I expect or hope to achieve and is there an opportunity?
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Vamos a la playa 

Chantilly, France

Although I grew up only a few miles from excellent sandy beachs on the shores of Lake Michigan, I have to say that I have mostly not been much of a beach person. I enjoyed the occasional outings for picnics and hikes but sitting for long periods in the sun has just seemed like little more than a waste of time, especially as a way to spend a vacation.

My attitude towards the waterfront, or at least certain waterfronts, changed in January of 1999 when I was in Egypt visiting friends Peter, Shannon and their baby daughter Abby. They had the wonderful idea of spending some time at the Red Sea in the waterfront town of Nuweiba on the Sinai peninsula. That trip is worth an entry in itself, but suffice it to say that it was in Nuweiba that I discovered the coral reefs of the Red Sea. I purchased a mask and snorkel at the hotel shop and spent wonderous hours discovering the reef.


(The Vogelaars and friend at Nuweiba)

I don't remember exactly when I was first introduced to windsurfing. I vaguely remember experimenting on an outing, once again with Peter and Shannon but this time north of Shannon's parents' home in Brighton Michigan on a small lake. I don't think I got very far beyond managing to stand up on the board.

My experience in Nuweiba happened during my second period of residence in France and a colleague of mine at that time got me interested again in windsurfing as his wife had gotten him involved and he was making good progress at it. I may have tried a few times, one at his cottage on the English Channel, and another on a beach in Normandy, but both times were unsuccessful due to the high swells which kept throwing me off balance.

What inspired me to vacation in Sharm El Sheik at the tip of the Sinai in January of 2000? Probably my experience in Nuweiba. I really wanted to see more coral. And I decided to try and do some windsuring. As for the coral, I definately wasn't disappointed. And I was able to visit the national park at Ras Mohammed which is a well known marine park. I was also able to do some windsurfing and got as far as standing upright and moving forward although turning remained problematic.

Later in July of 2000 I vacationed on the island of Malta. Although the underwater world is not as spectacular as the Red Sea I still enjoyed snorkeling under the summer sunshine. And I took lessons this time in Windsurfing and made quite a lot of progress. I was able to get through turns, mastered the use of the harness and even started on the beach start. I was thrilled enough to buy myself my own harness on the spot.

In October of that same year I travelled back to the Red Sea to the seaside village of Safaga, south of the city of Hurghada. I continued working on my windsurfing skills and enjoyed a day of snorkeling around an off-shore reef.

In June of 2001 I travelled to the south of the island of Corsica for more windsurfing but never managed to reach the next level with the water start.


(Windsurfing bay near Bonifacio in Corsica)

I had planned to travel to Dahab in the Fall of 2001 but cancelled this trip due to the terrorist attack on the twin towers in New York City on September 11. In the Summer of 2002 I broke my leg due to a Rollerblading accident and this pretty much deflected me away from risky sports for a while. Although the accident left me with a persistent discomfort in my left leg, it was not debilitating and was able to start downhill skiing again sometime after moving to Germany in 2003.

So it's been 7 years since I was last windsurfing and 8 years since I have been to the Red Sea. How time flies! In a few weeks I'll be going back. I have my sights set once again on Dahab.

Windsurfing is a physically demanding and except for some swimming a mostly anaerobic sport. My memory can recall a great deal of muscle aches and pain after a day of windsurfing due to the physical exertion. I have never been able to do as much surfing as I had hoped due to my own physical limitations, but on the other hand, I don't recall ever having prepared much before these vacations. This time I have joined a fitness club and have following a course of weight lifting with the aim of reducing the amount of muscle ache to a manageable level in Dahab. We'll see if I succeed.

I'm hoping to break through to the next level of Windsurfing which is the water start. As Dahab has a shallow lagoon, it seems encouraging as a location suitable for learning the water start.

I also have a list of fish I'm hoping to spot while snorkeling. I've never seen an Octopus in its native habitat and I would be thrilled to see a shark or a sea turtle. Seahorses are also something I have never seen although I have searched for them, especially in Malta. Seeing an electric ray would be something special as would a crocodile fish. Spotting and identifying a stone fish or a scorpion fish is a stretch goal. A second sighting of a Manta ray, eagle ray, and Moray eel would also be exciting. Becoming reaquainted with barracuda, pipefish and cornet fishes would be a treat.

Being able to spot and identify some of the less extraordinary species would be great also, such as jacks/trevallys, bat/spadefish, bluestripe snapper (which I think I spotted once in Safaga)

I fully expect that I will see lion fish, clownfish, parrotfish, hawkfish, sandperches, lizardfish, surgeon fish, trigger fish, puffer/trunk fish, goatfish, blennies, flounders, anthias, fusilier, butterfly/banner fish, angelfish (royal, emperor, yellowbar), wrasses (cleaner and others), groupers, reef stingrays, and damselfish.

O.K. so the objectives are set. Let's see if I'll meet any/some/all/none of them.

RB
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